Vancouver and back to the Gulf Islands

Spring flowers are in full bloom here in Vancouver and have been for quite sometime now.


We stayed in Vancouver till the morning of the Thursday, February 24th. From there we headed back across the Georgia Strait to Silva Bay on Gabriola Island. The forecast called for fifteen knot winds but the water was as smooth as glass, skies were clear and sunny.

Movie of the calm water crossing Georgia Strait


We tied up in front of  the Silva Bay Pub for the night.

Friday morning was overcast with a bit of fog but much warmer than in Vancouver. The Oriole was docked right next to le Bateau at Silva. She is Canada's oldest navy ship. Launched in 1921, she serves as a training ship for junior cadets in basic training.

Oriole's support ship ‘10’

 

The Oriole leaving port

Around ten-hundred we cast off, making our way through the reefs from Silva, then motored west, northwest around the light at Entrance Island via Farwood Channel.


Then proceeded southwest through Fairway Channel and into Naniamo Harbour. We tied up at the parks dock at Newcastle Island Provincial Marine Park. map


Newcastle has a rich history and wonderful hiking trails. By the time we had secured le Bateau, skies were sunny and clear, and the temperature was soon reaching thirteen celsius.


We set out to discover Newcastle Island and hiked the entire perimeter (seven and a half km) that afternoon. There was once a coal mine on Newcastle Island. An old air shaft still remains


Then during the mid to late eighteen hundreds the Newcastle Sandstone Quarry became a buzz of activity. It was because of the superior quality of Newcastle sandstone that builders from all over North America came here for columns and blocks of various shapes and sizes.

Johnnie standing on one of the sandstone columns



Buildings such as the BC Pen built in 1875, a mint in San Francisco in 1869, the Esquimalt Graving Dock in 1880 as well as many schools, government structures and churches used the high quality stone of Newcastle Island. A plaque of some of the buildings that used Newcastle Sandstone.


Zephyr, sunk off the shore of Mayne Island in 1872 while carrying the column Johnnie is standing on.


That night, we anchoured out in Naniamo Harbour. The following day we explored the interior trails of Newcastle Island.

Fascinating rock formations exposed at low tide




Ghosts of Newcastle Island


In later years the island was purchased by the CPR and developed as a recreational park for it's employees. Then sometime later the island was purchased by the City of Naniamo and maintained as a park for its citizens. Naniamo later sold the island to BC Parks for a dollar. Parks have continued doing an amazing job of caring for her since.

No trip to this area is complete without a visit to the Dinghy Dock Pub, a short dinghy ride from the southern edge of Newcastle Island, located on Protection Island. The Dinghy Dock Pub is on floats so most people arrive by small boat or dinghy. Protection Island was entirely developed back in the fifties. The developers promotional propaganda is framed and on a wall in the pub. Eight dollars down to secure the building lot of your choice and monthly payments of twenty-two dollars.

Sunday, February 27th, we departed Naniamo Harbour heading southeast in through Northumberland Channel to the infamous Dodd Narrows. Fog was heavy in the harbour but if we waited much longer to leave, we would miss slack current at Dodd Narrows and have to wait till Monday for a second attempt. We timed our arrival at the narrows perfectly and the heavy fog was beginning to burn off. But when we reached the small opening there was a log boom blocking the entire mouth. Three tugs were working on bringing the boom through which seemed to take forever.


We had to wait for another twenty-five minutes after slack to proceed through the passage. By then there were several boats waiting behind us to head south and at least six others plus another log boom on their way north through the tiny narrows. We all managed to squeeze our way through without incident and fortunately the extra current had little affect on le Bateau. map

From there we continued south past Mudge Island and the De Courcy Group, then east through Ruxton Passage and north to the entrance into Pirates Cove for a second visit. We anchoured in the cove, dropped the crab pot out in Pylades Channel, then went hiking around the edge of the island.




We found a wonderful bed of oysters and gathered enough for dinner.


The next morning rain was falling heavily but by noon it had subsided so we weighed anchour and carefully made our way out of the cove. We proceeded south down Pylades Channel to the north side of Mowgli Island and into Houstoun Passage between Kuper and Saltspring Island. From here we docked at the public wharf at Vesuvius on Saltspring. We went for a short walk around the tiny hamlet and had to take a photo of this Hibiscus.


The homeowner told us it had be blooming profusely since early February.

We had planned to visit the local pub but found it closed and for sale at one and a half million. We did find however, a small restaurant just up the street that was willing serve us up a plate of appys and a jug. The restaurant was in a tiny little house with very low ceilings. So low in fact that the ceiling height was no more than an inch and a half above the door height. We concluded that the true ceiling height was a whopping six foot nine and a half inches. We'll remember this miniature spot as the Hobbit Bar & Grill.

We were docked right next to the Crofton/Vesuvius ferry terminal, the Howe Sound Queen, all of fifty feet from le Bateau so we had a lot of wash from it that night.


March 1st, was drizzly but nothing that would hold us down. We were running low on grub, well really low, as we didn't have a thing for dinner that evening and we hadn't had much luck crabbing. There is a grocery of sorts at Crofton, just across Stuart Channel. We tied up at the public dock there just long enough to do a little provisioning. From there we continued on our way south into Sansum Narrows and west to Maple Bay where we fueled up and got a slip at the Maple Bay Marina for the night. map It was here that we paid the least price for diesel yet, eighty-eight cents a litre.

Pete's sister Carolyn sent an email in response to the most recent chapter in our adventure. She included a quote which we think is hilarious and quite enduring;
And remember....if you're not livin' life on the edge, you're takin' up too much space ;) We don't think of our ourselves as living life on the edge, but it's sure been a hoot thus far.


That evening we went up to the Maple Bay Marina Pub for a jug and some appys. On our way through Maple Bay about a year ago, we met two brokers, Mike and Laurie who just happened to be in the pub that night and they remembered us, hmmm. Anyway, it was great to fill them in on the tales of our journey. They have since taken over operations of the pub and restaurant there. The food's not bad.

The grounds at Maple Bay decorated with marine artifacts like this one


One of the many floathomes at Maple Bay Marina, this one's especially tiny


The following day we had a late breakfast, then set out mostly motoring south then east to Sidney Spit. The weather was of course mainly calm and sunny enroute. We maneuvered our way through Iroquois Pass and realized that our previous time through the area we had actually taken Page Pass and not Iroquois.

Page Pass was a bit narrower and twistier than Iroquois but the currents run just as strong through both.

Once at Sidney Spit we latched onto a mooring buoy, dropped the crab trap, and then headed out for a clam dig. All red tide alerts were now lifted so we kept all we found except for the very small ones. We wanted to impress Gail & Dave with some Westcoast Clam Chowder. We came back to the boat with nearly a full pail of clams. But all we got in the crab trap was a starfish.


The next morning though, we pulled up a huge Dungeness Crab, just the thing for a late breakfast. Then we made our way over to Port of Sidney Marina where we would meet Gail & Dave the following afternoon. We polished up le Bateau in anticipation of their arrival.

Mid afternoon on March 4th, Gail & Dave met us at the marina and after a brief look around le Bateau we made our way out of Port of Sidney and headed north to Montague Harbour on Galiano Island. Winds were light but we did manage to sail from the west side of Prevost Island to the entrance at Montague. We arrived at the park float just as night fell.

Saturday morning we all hiked along the clam beach and around the park showing our guests the main attractions of Montague Harbour.

Gail on the dock at Montague


Dave climbing over a fallen tree on the shore


Gail, Dave & Johnnie huddled around the park sign


Then mid afternoon Dave decided we should visit the one and only pub on the island, the infamous Hummingbird Pub. From the park float, the pub was a six plus km hike so our plan was to get a ride via the only island taxi. Easy said. When we called their phone number all we got was a voice mail message. So we continued on foot hoping to make use of the other method of island transit, our thumb. We tried our luck at hitchhiking and to our surprise the first vehicle stopped for us. The fellow drove us to the entrance of the pub. We had a jug and some appys there and met Tiger, the Pub Cat; at least that's what we called him. He was apparently hiding out from the fears Pub Parrot who attacks Tiger at any chance he gets.


Looks scary but he's just yawning


Then began to make our way back to the boat. This time we decided we'd walk back. Dave was the leader of the pack, not bad considering he had just had a hip replacement in late November.

Sunday morning we left Galiano Island and headed back toward Sidney.

Gail at the helm


Then we offered Dave a chance but he said 'you expect me to drive this'!


We anchoured at Princess Bay off the southwestern edge of Portland Island about a knot and a half out from Sidney. Princess Margaret deeded the entire island to the province of BC so it is now a wonderful provincial marine park. We all jumped into Bullfrog and made our way to shore, then hiked along the southwestern edge of the island and back to the dinghy. Once back aboard le Bateau we baked up some cinnamon rolls and enjoyed the scenery from the cockpit for awhile.

I hope Gail doesn't kill us for including this clip but it's just too cute.

Gail explaining a ducks existence, then smacking Pete


We weighed anchour and continued on our way. Later that afternoon we tied up at Gulf twenty-four at the Port of Sidney Marina where Gail and Dave departed le Bateau. They had reserved a room at a hotel for the night. They treated us to a wonderful dinner that evening and we met up with them for coffee the next morning before their caught their flight back to Calgary.

Pete's sister Merry is arriving Wednesday morning so we stayed at Sidney Spit that night.

Sunrise on Sidney Spit.



A goofy seagull


Tuesday was beautiful and sunny again. Winds were a little calm, perfect for trying out our Spinnaker for the first time. map Le Bateau was a dazzling looking specimen on the horizon with all the colours of her brilliant sail. Johnnie jumped in Bullfrog to take a photo of le Bateau from a distance.


As Murphy's luck would have it, the dinghy motor stalled and refused to start so he had to row back. Good thing the waters were so calm.

Tuesday, early evening we checked into G-24 at Port of Sidney once more to await Merry's arrival the following morning. We did more cleaning and scrubbing on le Bateau and Bullfrog.

Merry's flight arrived at around eleven on Wednesday morning. We were at the airport to meet her. We all taxied back to the marina where Mere met le Bateau for the first time. It was love at first sight; they hit it off famously. Merry had several years of sailing experience but it's been a few years since she has been on the water. The routine came back to her right away and she was very comfortable onboard le Bateau.

Merry at the helm


An eagle on the breakwater as we're leaving Port of Sidney Marina. Looks like he's checking out his recent pedicure.


From Sidney we headed up through Iroquois into Satellite Channel, through Sansum Narrows

and into Maple Bay were we tied up again at Maple Bay Marina in Birds Eye Cove. map

Appys and a mug at the Maple Bay Pub with Mere


Thursday morning was another picture perfect day, sunny and warm. We headed out of Bird's Eye Cove, Maple Bay, back into Sansum Narrows into Stuart Channel and rounded the north end of Saltspring Island in Houstoun Passage mostly motor sailing.

At the eastern edge of the pass we raised the Spinnaker but the wind had completely died. A large military ship past us off our starboard side and the crew were up on deck chatting with us on the way by commenting on our lack of cooperating wind.


After a few more minutes we conceded and began motoring southeast to Conover Cove on Wallace Island. Our spot at the dock was waiting for us and we tied up and went for a hike to the north end of the island at Chivers Point. We soaked up the sun (sixteen celcius).

Mere and Johnnie enjoying the warm sun at Chivers Point

Took in the vistas and explored the rock formations there. Although we were at a high tide we were able to use some sticks to hoist a few oysters to the surface. This made Merry extremely pleased.

We departed Conover Cove the next morning and set a course for Montague Harbour and had a great sail on a reach to the entrance of the harbour.

Mere up on deck adjusting the main halyard


We changed our direction before turning into the harbour and instead, headed for Ganges to look for parts to repair the water pump switch that had tried to die on us again the night before.map We tied up at Moby's Marina for the night. We got the right parts for the pump switch after a couple of visits, at Mouat's Hardware. Merry treated us to a great dinner at the Oystercatcher Bar & Grill that night.

Saturday morning was another beautiful sunny day.

Starfish by the docks in Ganges


We cast off from Moby's and tied up at the wharf in front of the town centre were we had breakfast at the Tree House then picked up a few more supplies.

Mere sipping tea at the Tree House


From here we had a great sail out of Ganges, into Captain Passage and across Trincomali Channel into Montague Harbour. The dock was full so we latched onto a mooring buoy. It was still mid afternoon so we jumped into Bullfrog, tied up on shore and went for a hike around the park. We got a sack full of oysters for dinner that night then waited on the beach to view the renowned Sunset on Montague Harbour.


Sunday, March 13th, was another sunny and warm day, but Merry had come down with a mild case of food poisoning, most likely from the oysters. She was still a great sport and we dragged her over to a clam beach were she sat back and watched as we dug up a couple of dozen good sized clams and cockles.

Early afternoon we decided to continue on and headed south down Trincomali and Swanson Channel on the west side of Mayne Island and North Pender Island then into Boundary Pass and into Bedwell Harbour on South Pender Island.

We took a slip at Poets Cove Resort & Spa for the night. What a beautiful spot. And when we inquired about the status of the hot-tub, the one by the pool they apologized and said it was not heating properly but that we could use the one at the spa. We said sure, we’d be right up. The pool was full of obnoxious children anyway so that wouldn't have been allot of fun. We got our stuff together and headed up to the spa and wow! What a spa. We had the entire facility to ourselves, the posh washrooms, the sauna in a cave and the hot-tub at the base of a waterfalls. It was fabulous. We told ourselves we deserved this. Merry was feeling a little better but definitely not her happy self.

Monday morning Merry woke with a sparkle in her eye and a ravenous appetite. She treated us to brunch at Poets Cove Pub Restaurant.

Mere at Poets Cove


After that we explored the grounds. Then we all hopped in Bullfrog and traveled around the point to Beaumont Marine Park were we explored the trails and the coastline. We found some Hermit Crab occupying an abandoned snail shell.

Merry playing with a Hermit Crab

We found the largest oysters any of us have ever seen, monster oysters!


This Great Blue Heron was perched on the rocks across from the dock at Poets Cove Marina.


Mid afternoon we cast off from Poets Cove and made our way west-southwest out of Bedwell Harbour into Boundary Pass and as we reached the northern edge of the entrance to Haro Strait we were treated to a show by some Pacific Dolphins. The seas were so calm we could follow them as dived deep into the water. We were trilled and the show lasted for several minutes.

Pacific Dolphins

We continued west past Gooch and Forrest Island, then into Sidney Channel.

Mere and Johnnie at the helm


We were not ready to go into the marina yet so we sailed out in the channel for close to another hour, till near sundown.

It was the perfect ending to Merry's time with us.

The sun was setting so we returned to harbour map


We then tied up to G-24 at Pot of Sidney Marina once again, got settled and went to the Port Pub for a jug and some appys.

The next morning we all got up around five am and said our good-byes to Merry. We tried to convince her to stay but she said she must leave us. We had a super visit with her.

Later that morning the winds blow strong from the southeast and we thought for a while we might have to stay in the port for another night but in an hour or so it had subsided. The forecast was calling for gale force winds out of the north so Sidney is not a place you want to be for that. So we headed north through Moresby Passage, Swanson Channel and Captain Passage into Ganges Harbour were we tied up once again at Moby's Marina. There's reasonably good protection here from north winds.

When the strong wind warnings end we plan to make our way north to either Pirates Cove or Silva Bay to meet up with Peggy & John, the couple we met at Conover Cove who have the slip at Ladysmith. It'll be fun to see them again.

Till next time!