Vancouver
and back to the Gulf Islands
Spring flowers are in full bloom here in Vancouver and have been
for quite sometime now.

We stayed in
Vancouver till the morning of the Thursday, February 24th. From there
we headed back across the
Georgia Strait to Silva Bay on Gabriola
Island. The forecast called for fifteen knot winds but the water was as
smooth as glass, skies were clear and sunny.
Movie of the calm
water crossing Georgia Strait
We tied up in front of the Silva Bay Pub for the night.
Friday morning was overcast with a bit of fog but much warmer than in
Vancouver. The Oriole was docked right next to le Bateau at Silva. She is
Canada's oldest navy ship. Launched in 1921, she serves as a training
ship for junior cadets in basic training.

Oriole's support ship ‘10’

The Oriole
leaving port
Around ten-hundred we cast off, making our way through the reefs from
Silva, then motored west, northwest around the light at Entrance Island
via Farwood Channel.

Then proceeded southwest through Fairway Channel and into Naniamo
Harbour. We tied up at the parks dock at Newcastle Island Provincial
Marine Park. map

Newcastle has a rich history and wonderful hiking trails. By the time
we had secured le Bateau,
skies were sunny and clear, and the temperature was soon reaching
thirteen celsius.

We set out to discover Newcastle Island and hiked the entire perimeter
(seven and a half km) that afternoon. There was once a coal mine on
Newcastle Island. An old air shaft still remains

Then during the mid to late eighteen hundreds the Newcastle Sandstone
Quarry became a buzz of activity. It was because of the superior
quality of Newcastle sandstone that builders from all over North
America came here for columns and blocks of various shapes and sizes.
Johnnie standing on one of the sandstone columns


Buildings such as the BC Pen built in 1875, a mint in San Francisco in
1869, the Esquimalt Graving Dock in 1880 as well as many schools,
government structures and churches used the high quality stone of
Newcastle Island. A plaque of some of the buildings that used Newcastle
Sandstone.

Zephyr, sunk off the shore of Mayne Island in 1872 while
carrying the column Johnnie is standing on.

That night, we anchoured out in Naniamo Harbour. The following
day we explored the interior trails of Newcastle Island.
Fascinating rock formations exposed at low tide


Ghosts of Newcastle Island

In later years the island was purchased by the CPR and developed
as a recreational park for it's employees. Then sometime later the
island was purchased by the City of Naniamo and maintained as a park
for its citizens. Naniamo later sold the island to BC Parks for a
dollar. Parks have continued doing an amazing job of caring for her
since.
No trip to this area is complete without a visit to the Dinghy Dock
Pub, a short dinghy ride from the southern edge of Newcastle Island,
located on Protection Island. The Dinghy Dock Pub is on floats so most
people arrive by small boat or dinghy. Protection Island was entirely
developed back in the fifties. The developers promotional propaganda is
framed and on a wall in the pub. Eight dollars down to secure the
building lot of your choice and monthly payments of twenty-two dollars.
Sunday, February 27th, we departed Naniamo Harbour heading southeast in
through Northumberland Channel to the infamous Dodd Narrows. Fog was
heavy in the harbour but if we waited much longer to leave, we would
miss slack current at Dodd Narrows and have to wait till Monday for a
second attempt. We timed our arrival at the narrows perfectly and the
heavy fog was beginning to burn off. But when we reached the small
opening there was a log boom blocking the entire mouth. Three tugs were
working on bringing the boom through which seemed to take forever.

We had to wait for another twenty-five minutes after slack to proceed
through the passage. By then there were several boats waiting behind us
to head south and at least six others plus another log boom on their
way north through the tiny narrows. We all managed to squeeze our way
through without incident and fortunately the extra current had little
affect on le Bateau. map
From there
we continued south past Mudge Island and the De Courcy
Group, then east through Ruxton Passage and north to the entrance into
Pirates Cove for a second visit. We anchoured in the cove, dropped the
crab pot out in Pylades Channel, then went hiking around the edge of
the island.


We found a wonderful bed of oysters and gathered enough for dinner.
The next morning rain was falling heavily but by noon it had subsided
so we weighed anchour and carefully made our way out of the cove. We
proceeded south down Pylades Channel to the north side of Mowgli Island
and into Houstoun Passage between Kuper and Saltspring Island. From
here we docked at the public wharf at Vesuvius on Saltspring. We
went
for a short walk around the tiny hamlet and had to take a photo of this
Hibiscus.

The homeowner told us it had be blooming profusely since early February.
We had planned to visit the local pub but found it closed and for sale
at one and a half million. We did find however, a small restaurant just
up the street that was willing serve us up a plate of appys and a jug.
The restaurant was in a tiny little house with very low ceilings. So
low in fact that the ceiling height was no more than an inch and a half
above the door height. We concluded that the true ceiling height was a
whopping six foot nine and a half inches. We'll remember this miniature
spot as the Hobbit Bar & Grill.
We were docked right next to the Crofton/Vesuvius ferry terminal, the
Howe Sound Queen, all of fifty feet from le Bateau so we had a lot of wash
from it that night.

March 1st, was drizzly but nothing that would hold us down. We were
running low on grub, well really low, as we didn't have a thing for
dinner that evening and we hadn't had much luck crabbing. There is a
grocery of sorts at Crofton, just across Stuart Channel. We tied up at
the public dock there just long enough to do a little provisioning.
From there we continued on our way south into Sansum Narrows and west
to Maple Bay where we fueled up and got a slip at the Maple Bay Marina
for the night. map It was
here that we paid the least price for diesel yet,
eighty-eight cents a litre.
Pete's sister Carolyn sent an email in response to the most recent
chapter in our adventure. She included a quote which we think is
hilarious and quite enduring; And remember....if
you're not livin' life on the edge, you're takin' up too much space ;)
We don't think of our
ourselves as living life on the edge, but it's sure been a hoot thus
far.











Sunrise on Sidney Spit.

A goofy seagull

Tuesday was beautiful and sunny again. Winds were a little calm,
perfect for trying out our Spinnaker for the first time. map Le
Bateau was a dazzling looking
specimen on the horizon with all the colours of her brilliant sail.
Johnnie jumped in Bullfrog to
take a photo of le Bateau
from a distance.

As Murphy's luck would have it, the dinghy motor stalled and refused to
start so he had to row back. Good thing the waters were so calm.
Tuesday, early evening we checked into G-24 at Port of Sidney once more
to await Merry's arrival the following morning. We did more cleaning
and scrubbing on le Bateau and
Bullfrog.
Merry's flight arrived at around eleven on Wednesday morning. We were
at the airport to meet her. We all taxied back to the marina where Mere
met le Bateau for the first
time. It was love at first sight; they hit it off famously. Merry had
several years of sailing experience but it's been a few years since she
has been on the water. The routine came back to her right away and she
was very comfortable onboard le
Bateau.
Merry at the helm

An eagle on the breakwater as we're leaving Port of Sidney Marina.
Looks like he's checking out his recent pedicure.

From Sidney we headed up through Iroquois into Satellite Channel,
through Sansum Narrows

and into Maple Bay were we tied up again at Maple Bay Marina in Birds
Eye Cove. map
Appys and a mug at the Maple Bay Pub with Mere

Thursday morning was another picture perfect day, sunny and warm. We
headed out of Bird's Eye Cove, Maple Bay, back into Sansum Narrows into
Stuart Channel and rounded the north end of Saltspring Island in
Houstoun Passage mostly motor sailing.
At the eastern edge of the pass we raised the Spinnaker but the wind
had completely died. A large military ship past us off our starboard
side and the crew were up on deck chatting with us on the way by
commenting on our lack of cooperating wind.

After a few more minutes we conceded and began motoring southeast to
Conover Cove on Wallace Island. Our spot at the dock was waiting
for us
and we tied up and went for a hike to the north end of the island at
Chivers Point. We soaked up the sun (sixteen celcius).
Took in the vistas and explored the rock formations there.
Although we were at a high tide we were able to use some sticks to
hoist a few oysters to the surface. This made Merry extremely pleased.
We departed Conover Cove the next morning and set a course for Montague
Harbour and had a great sail on a reach to the entrance of the harbour.
Mere up on deck adjusting the main halyard

We changed our direction before turning into the harbour and instead,
headed for Ganges to look for parts to repair the water pump switch
that had tried to die on us again the night before.map We tied up at
Moby's Marina for the night. We got the right parts for the pump switch
after a couple of visits, at Mouat's Hardware. Merry treated us to a
great dinner at the Oystercatcher Bar & Grill that night.
Saturday morning was another beautiful sunny day.
Starfish by the docks in Ganges

We cast off from Moby's and tied up at the wharf in front of the town
centre were we had breakfast at the Tree House then picked up a few
more supplies.
Mere sipping tea at the Tree House

From here we had a great sail out of Ganges, into Captain Passage and
across Trincomali Channel into
Montague Harbour. The dock was full so
we latched onto a mooring buoy. It was still mid afternoon so we jumped
into Bullfrog, tied up on shore and went for a hike around the park. We
got a sack full of oysters for dinner that night then waited on the
beach to view the renowned Sunset on Montague Harbour.

Sunday, March 13th, was another sunny and warm day, but Merry had come
down with a mild case of food poisoning, most likely from the oysters.
She was still a great sport and we dragged her over to a clam beach
were she sat back and watched as we dug up a couple of dozen good sized
clams and cockles.
Early afternoon we decided to continue on and headed south down
Trincomali and Swanson Channel on the west side of Mayne Island and
North Pender Island then into Boundary Pass and into Bedwell Harbour on
South Pender Island.
We took a slip at Poets Cove Resort & Spa for the night. What a
beautiful spot. And when we inquired about the status of the hot-tub,
the one by the pool they apologized and said it was not heating
properly but that we could use the one at the spa. We said sure, we’d
be right up. The pool was full of obnoxious children anyway so that
wouldn't have been allot of fun. We got our stuff together and headed
up to the spa and wow! What a spa. We had the entire facility to
ourselves, the posh washrooms, the sauna in a cave and the hot-tub at
the base of a waterfalls. It was fabulous. We told ourselves we
deserved this. Merry was feeling a little better but definitely not her
happy self.
Monday morning Merry woke with a sparkle in her eye and a ravenous
appetite. She treated us to brunch at Poets Cove Pub Restaurant.
Mere at Poets Cove

After that we explored the grounds. Then we all hopped in Bullfrog and
traveled around the point to Beaumont Marine Park were we explored the
trails and the coastline. We found some Hermit Crab occupying an
abandoned snail shell.
Merry playing with a Hermit Crab
We found the largest oysters any of us have ever seen, monster oysters!

This Great Blue Heron was perched on the rocks across from the dock at
Poets Cove Marina.

Mid afternoon we cast off from Poets Cove and made our way
west-southwest out of Bedwell Harbour into Boundary Pass and as we
reached the northern edge of the entrance to Haro Strait we were
treated to a show by some Pacific Dolphins. The seas were so calm we
could follow them as dived deep into the water. We were trilled and the
show lasted for several minutes.
Pacific Dolphins
We continued west past Gooch and Forrest Island, then into Sidney
Channel.
Mere and Johnnie at the helm

We were not ready to go into the marina yet so we sailed out in the
channel for close to another hour, till near sundown.

It was the perfect ending to Merry's time with us.
The sun was setting so we returned to harbour map

We then tied up to G-24 at Pot of Sidney Marina once again, got settled
and went to the Port Pub for a jug and some appys.
The next morning we all got up around five am and said our good-byes to
Merry. We tried to convince her to stay but she said she must leave us.
We had a super visit with her.
Later that morning the winds blow strong from the southeast and we
thought for a while we might have to stay in the port for another night
but in an hour or so it had subsided. The forecast was calling for gale
force winds out of the north so Sidney is not a place you want to be
for that. So we headed north through Moresby Passage, Swanson Channel
and Captain Passage into Ganges
Harbour were we tied up once again at
Moby's Marina. There's reasonably good protection here from north winds.
When the strong wind warnings end we plan to make our way north to
either Pirates Cove or Silva Bay to meet up with Peggy & John, the
couple we met at Conover Cove who have the slip at Ladysmith. It'll be
fun to see them again.
Till next time!